India
Experiencing India is what independent traveling is all about. The site of the rise and fall of vast ancient empires and the birthplace of four major religions, India radiates culture and tradition. The feel of traveling through India is one of complete immersion. The food, sights, sounds, and smells in India are an all out sensory celebration. Everything is fresh, diverse, and exhilarating. Now home to 1.2 billion Indians the scale of the country is colossal. The cities are imposing and crowded, and the infrastructure is sound but still very much emerging.
Although traveling in India can seem overwhelming at times, the country’s elite attribute as a tourism destination are the people. Of all the destinations we have visited in Asia, we found Indians to be some of the most friendly and hospitable people. The level of English is excellent and the people we met were genuine and helpful. While we were only able to discover a tiny sliver of the giant country, the impact it left on us was profound. If you are up for a real adventure a world away from the cookie cutter island holiday, head to India.
In the following section you will find helpful information for planning a trip in Northern India. Here's what you can expect:
VISA
The process of obtaining a visa in India is a bit more involved than other countries in Asia. Indian immigration can be rather particular and this is evident through the online visa process. For a standard 30-day tourist visa you can apply on their government site here. You will need to scan the first two pages of your passport along with a headshot. The cost is $60 for U.S. citizens but varies for different nationalities. The visa itself is a stamp that takes up half a passport page. Additional information on visas can be found here.
You should apply for your E-Visa at least 4 days prior to your planned arrival date in India. There are a number of services that can expedite the visa process if you are in urgent need of a visa.
What you need
- Your original passport, valid for at least 6 months
- Scanned copies of the first 2 pages of your passport
- A scanned passport style photograph
- Address of your first nights accommodation in India with a contact number
When to visit
The best time to visit India is between October and March when the weather is typically dry and comfortable. March to June is the Indian summer and temperatures can soar as high as 122 degrees Fahrenheit. June to September is monsoon season. Although the monsoon season will be wet, budget travelers will appreciate steep drops in the prices for accommodation.
Budget
Currency: The currency in India is the Indian Rupee (INR).
Conversion Rate: $1 = 66.8 INR (Oct 2016)
Accommodation: We spent an average of $10 a night. A double room costs anywhere from $6-11. Dorm rooms can be found for $4.
Food: Most meals cost around $4, however local eats can be found for $2.50.
Drink: $2.50-3 for cocktails and $1.50-2 for beers at restaurants. Beers are $1.25 at local stores.
Laundry: $1.25/kilo
Tipping: Tipping is customary in India and a bit confusing. As a general rule of thumb tip 7-10% of your total bill in restaurants. To learn more about Indian tipping practices check out this link: Tipping in India.
Getting Around in India
The railway network in India is extensive and efficient. The train stations are a cultural melting pot. Everyone from well-heeled businessmen to holy men known as “Sadhus” covered from head to toe in blue body paint ride the rails. Although some stretches of travel are quite long, all the trains we traveled on were in decent shape and overall it was a better experience than we expected.
Depending on your budget there are up to 7 different class options on Indian trains. The most common are: first class, 2-tier AC, 3-tier AC, sleeper, AC chair car, non AC chair car, and unreserved. We did most of our travel in the 2-tier AC section and found it to be safe, comfortable, and clean. However, you can save a considerable amount of cash if you are willing to sacrifice some personal space and travel in sleeper class. For details about the different class options check out this article from Indiasomeday.com.
It is important to know that trains in India sell out quickly, especially the tickets for first class and the AC cars. Tickets are available for purchase 120 days prior to the departure date online at government's Indian Railway site. As with most Indian government sites, this one can be a bit confusing. For an easier layout check out Clear Trip. If possible, it is a good idea to reserve your train tickets before arriving in India to allow for smoother travel.
Aside from trains, buses are an alternative method of transportation in India. While some of the buses are often overcrowded and dated the sleeper buses are actually pretty comfortable. These buses have rows of seats similar to a normal bus with private sleeper berths suspended above the seats. The sleeper berths have their own sliding doors, AC, a window, and plenty of room for 2 people. In addition to the sleeper AC buses the Volvo buses are by far the best quality option. Always remember to ask to see the actual bus you will be riding on before agreeing to buy a ticket.
India in 14-18 Days
Itinerary Overview:
New Delhi: 1-2 days
Agra: 1 day
Jaipur: 2-3 days
Udaipur: 3 days
Jaisalmer: 2-3 days
Rishikesh: 4-5 days
New Delhi
1-2 Days
Hauz Khas Complex, New Delhi
If you’re headed to Delhi chances are at some point you have met someone who has told you what an awful place it can be. Parts of Delhi are the grimy, frustrating city that consistently abuses travelers. The traffic is fast, erratic, and confined. The back streets are narrow, winding, and confusing with tall buildings full of apartments and shops looming in every direction. The thought of how anyone has stable electricity with the tangled heaps of electrical wires haphazardly weaving through crowded cityscape is mind-boggling. Somehow, the orchestra of urban chaos works to make Delhi an interesting and exciting city to experience. The ambitious traveler who makes an effort to explore is rewarded with beautiful parks, impressive architecture, amazing food, and exciting nightlife. In this sprawling capital it’s worth ignoring the negative reviews and better to dive right in to India’s largest metropolis with an open mind.
A few pleasant surprises in Delhi are the Lodhi Gardens and Hauz Khas Village. The Lodhi Gardens are located on a 90 acre park packed with beautiful florae and interesting tombs. Hauz Khas Village is an upscale neighborhood with boutique shops, restaurants and unique concept bars. The main street of Hauz Khas Village empties into Hauz Khas Complex, which is a remarkable combination of architecture. It’s a popular place for young Delhi-ites, to hangout around the now defunct 13th century madrasa, mosque, and tomb in the complex. It’s also an enjoyable place to watch the sunset and grab dinner after a day strolling around the park.
How to get from Delhi to Agra:
Mode of Transportation: Train
Time: 2 hours
Cost: $6 (AC seating) - $14 (2-Tier AC)
Agra
1 Day
The Taj Mahal, Agra
Agra is about 4 hours south of Delhi by train. It is home to India’s most famous tourist destination, the Taj Mahal. One of the 7 manmade wonders of the world, the Taj Mahal is exceptionally impressive. The symmetry found here is spellbinding and it is easy to spend hours snapping pictures and surveying the impressive tomb. What’s truly magnificent is the way in which the ivory-white marble changes color throughout the day as the sun shifts around the architectural masterpiece. At the train station there are a number of touts offering tours of the city. The most cost effective option to experiencing the Taj Mahal is to rent a taxi for a pre-arranged half or full day rate. You should expect to pay around $15 including the tip. Instead of storing bags at a guesthouse, store them in the trunk of the taxi. Your agreed cost will likely include transportation to other attractions in the area including the Agra Fort and the Baby Taj if you want to explore past the Taj Mahal. Following a day around Agra have your taxi take you to the train station and catch the evening or night train to Jaipur.
How to get from Agra to Jaipur:
Mode of Transportation: Train
Time: 5 hours
Cost: $3 (Sleeper) - $14 (2-Tier AC)
Jaipur
2-3 Days
The Amber Fort, Jaipur
In Jaipur India begins to feel extremely different. The land is rolling and dry. The city is not nearly as densely populated as Delhi. Cows and goats casually stroll around town. The imposing buildings of the previous monster cities are replaced with smaller architecture. Here you will find beautiful intricate stonework on display all throughout the city. While still busy and vibrant, it is much more laid back than Agra.
Known as the Pink City due to the color of the stone used in most of the buildings, Jaipur is the largest city in the Rajasthan province. In Rajasthan most major cities are home to at least one distinct fort or palace. Jaipur is no different and the Amber Fort is a remarkable place that should not be missed. The maze of corridors, stairways, and catwalks leading to hidden chambers make for a worthy day of exploration. The architecture is outstanding and the detail beautiful.
Jaipur is a well-traveled destination in Rajasthan and many of the local stores particularly near the Johri Bazaar cater to the passing tourist. All sorts of jewelry, trinkets, spices, and clothing are peddled in the sprawling bazaar. In addition, if you are suffering from Delhi belly and need a break from curry there are a number of restaurants that cook up delicious western meals.
How to get from Jaipur to Udaipur:
Mode of Transportation: Train
Time: 7 hours
Cost: $7 (Sleeper) - $16 (2-Tier AC)
Udaipur
3 Days
Roof Top Nooks, Udaipur
The romantic town of Udaipur is stunning. The city is situated next to Lake Pichola. Seemingly floating in the middle of the lake is a longstanding palace that has been converted into a heritage hotel. Many of the hotels, eateries, and watering holes around town have accessible rooftops with spectacular views of the lake. It is an excellent town to take a step back from strict itineraries, slow down, and relax. Traveling in India can feel fast and overbearing at times; the comfortable feel of Udaipur is the perfect oasis for a weary traveler after a stretch of long travel days.
Here you will find interesting palaces and temples in town coupled with excellent shopping. The narrow streets are packed with artisans and creatives selling unique works. Udaipur is especially famous for miniature paintings inspired by the Rajput and Mugal Empires. Boutiques put these fascinating paintings on display all around town. If you are interested in learning how to cook Indian cuisine, Udaipur is also renowned as one of the top destinations to learn how to cook Northern Indian food. There are a number of restaurants and independent women who offer cooking classes for visitors. Outside of town, Deen Dayal Park offers a nice vantage point of Lake Pichola and the city. Take a gondola ride along the Udaipur Ropeway to Machhala Hill Top. It is an incredible spot to snap photographs especially in the evening as the sun sets over the Aravali mountain range. The City Palace in town and the Monsoon Palace, a short ride outside of the city, are also worthy of a half days time.
How to get from Udaipur to Jaisalmer:
Mode of Transportation: Bus
Time: 9 hours
Cost: $5 (Non-AC) - $15 (AC Sleeper Deluxe)
Jaisalmer
2-3 Days
The ride to Jaisalmer from Udaipur is a grueling stretch of travel. The land begins to turn to desert as you near your destination and after hours of dusty highways seemingly out of nowhere the cluster of soft golden buildings that form downtown Jaisalmer appear. The majority of the city is made of sandstone, which is shaped to perfection and intricately carved. Large sandstone houses called ‘Havelis’ line the streets and positioned in the middle of town is the massive Jaisalmer Fort. The fort is full of life as locals have businesses, sell goods, and live in the world heritage site. The tops of the fort’s walls are easily accessible and can provide boundless views of the sprawling desert city below.
Most tourists who travel this far west are here for the camel safaris. Camel expeditions of all different lengths can be arranged at guesthouses in town. You can take sunset safaris or multi-day treks sleeping in the desert under the stars if you are able to spare a few additional days here. The quality of tours varies greatly from the different tour outfits in town so make sure to check out a few places and talk to other travelers to see if they had a positive or negative experience. When deciding the length of your expedition, remember, camels are interesting animals to interact with but they aren’t the most comfortable ride. It is also important to ask questions when negotiating your trip. Know exactly where you are going and all of the details that are included in your expedition price. There are all kinds of different services and packages so it’s a good idea to know what you’re in for.
How to get from Jaisalmer to Rishikesh:
Step 1: Getting from Jaisalmer to Delhi
Mode of Transportation: Train
Time: 12 hours
Cost: $7 (Sleeper) - $19 (2-Tier AC)
Step 2: Getting from Delhi to Haridwar
Mode of Transportation: Train
Time: 4 hours
Cost: $3 (Sleeper) - $11 (2-Tier AC)
Step 3: Getting from Haridwar to Rishikesh
Mode of Transportation: Bus
Time: 45 minutes
Cost: $1
No matter how you approach the journey from Jaisalmer to Rishikesh, it’s a long haul. There is no direct train or bus route and you will most likely need to pass through Delhi before heading up to Rishikesh. There is a train that goes directly from Jaisalmer to Delhi that takes 12 hours; from here you can take a train to Haridwar that is another 4 hours. Once arriving in Haridwar there is a local bus that runs to Rishikesh and takes 45 minutes to an hour.
One way to break up the trip is by heading to Jodhpur. Jodhpur is a cool town in its own right and is about 6 hours east of Jaisalmer. From Jodhpur the trip to Delhi is 10 hours.
Rishikesh
4-5 Days
The Ganges River Flowing Through the Himalayas, Rishikesh
Known as the birthplace of yoga in India, Rishikesh has a completely different vibe than any of the cities in Rajasthan. In Rishikesh, the icy blue tinted Ganges River flows through the foothills of the Himalayas with the town extending from both riverbanks. The geography is mountainous, lush, green and bursting with plant life. The small mountain town was made internationally famous when the Beatles visited in 1968 to attend a Transcendental Meditation training session at the Ashram of Maharishi Mahesh Yogi. Today the semi abandoned, “Beatles Ashram” remains a popular tourist destination in Rishikesh. Expect a rather high entrance fee comparatively speaking of $9 if you plan on visiting the ashram.
Rishikesh is a healthy town full of Ashrams, Yoga Schools, Meditation Centers, and Ayurvedic Therapy. It has an international feel as people from all over the world flock here for different therapies and certifications. There are a multitude of ashrams to pick from depending on what you are looking to gain in your practice. The majority of ashrams require reservations in advance and at least a 1-2 week time commitment. This time commitment is not uncommon as it is recommended that you dedicate at least two weeks to your ashram stay in order to reap the full benefits of the experience. With over 1,000 rooms Parmarth Niketan is the largest ashram in Rishikesh offering a flexible self-led practice for only $9 a night. During your short or long-term stay here you will be able to take advantage of their daily yoga and meditation classes and sunset ritual services on the banks of the Ganges. Ashram stays provide an opportunity to take a step back and unplug to whatever extent you feel comfortable. Taking a few days of silence to reflect inward on your personal journey generates a powerful experience. If you approach Rishiskesh with an open mind and step outside of your comfort zone it is an unforgettable pilgrimage.
How to get from Rishikesh to Delhi:
Step 1: Getting From Rishikesh to Haridwar
Mode of Transportation: Bus
Time: 45 minutes
Cost: $1
Step 2: Getting From Haridwar to Delhi
Mode of Transportation: Train
Time: 4.5 hours
Cost: $4 (Sleeper) - $12 (2-Tier AC)
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