Laos
The Lao People’s Democratic Republic is a small landlocked country that shares borders with Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam and China. With a population of fewer than 7 million people it is much less populous than all of its Asian neighbors. The landscape is extremely mountainous and full of dense jungle, making for long travel days along windy roads through drastic scenery. The Socialist Republic has a conflicted modern history of colonial aggression, war, and human rights atrocities.
As an American, traveling in Southeast Asia can be deeply concerning. In the 1960s and 70s the U.S. government made catastrophic geopolitical decisions in this part of the world. In 1964 the carnage of the Vietnam War spilled over into neighboring Laos. Due in large part to North Vietnamese supply lines running through Laos on the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the small country found itself in the crosshairs of the U.S. Air Force.
Relentless bombing campaigns resulted in Laos becoming the most heavily bombed country per capita in world history. There were over 580,000 bombing missions that resulted in over 2 million tons of bombs dropped on Laos. After 42 years modern Laos still has not fully recovered from the disastrous effects of the war. Of the 280 million cluster bombs that were dropped during the war up to 80 million of them didn’t detonate. The bombs lie in wait all over rural Laos and can still explode if moved. To date an estimated 1% of the unexploded ordinances have been safely cleared from Laos.
Today the shells of old munitions can be seen all over the country. Hollowed bomb shells are used to make canoes, fire pits, gardens and as foundation stilts under houses. Smaller scraps are crafted into decorations, spoons, cups and jewelry. It is a constant chilling reminder of the lasting effects of a senseless war.
Despite the conflict and bloody past, the people of Laos are welcoming and genuine. Although Laos doesn’t have idyllic beaches like Thailand, Vietnam, or Cambodia the landscape is beautiful and the culture is relaxing. Even without the beaches there always seems be a river or waterfall nearby where tourist and locals can be found cooling off. Along with its natural beauty Laos is also incredibly culturally diverse and is home to between 42 and 118 different ethnic groups. The textiles and crafts made by the different hill tribes in Laos are some of the most exotic and unique in Southeast Asia. The pace of life is slow, laid back and comfortable. It is an excellent stop for unplugging, and unwinding.
In the following section you will find travel information to help with planning a trip to Laos. Here's what you can expect:
Visa
Laos makes the visa process easy for foreigners arriving by both land and air. You will need to complete a visa application form, provide immigration with a passport-sized photo and make a payment of $35 for 30 days (for USA passport holders, cost varies for different nationalities). They accept payments in USD and Thai Baht although USD is recommended to avoid overpaying. The visa itself is a sticker that takes up a whole passport page.
What you need
- Your original passport, valid for at least another 6 months
- Two passport-sized photographs
- $35 or 1,500 THB for the visa fee
When To visit
We arrived in Laos at the end of May and stayed through the end of April. This was the peak of hot season. The days were scorching and the nights were slightly cooler, especially in the north. The summer breeze felt like a hot blow dryer. Luckily, during this time of year the country celebrates its New Year (April 13-16) with an epic country wide water fight that helps cool everyone down.
High season in Laos runs from November to February where you can expect nice weather. Low season is from March to April where it becomes almost unbearably hot and from May to October rain in common, especially in August.
Budget
Currency: The currency in Laos is the Lao Kip (LAK).
Conversion Rate: $1 = 8,119 LAK (Sept 2016)
Accommodation: We spent an average of $10 a night. A double room costs anywhere from $6-11. Dorm rooms can be found for $4.
Food: Meals cost around $4, however local eats can be found for $2.50.
Drink: $2.50-3 for cocktails and $1.50-2 for beers at restaurants. Beers are $1.25 at local stores.
Laundry: $1.25/kilo but can also be found for $0.60-$1 with some extra searching.
Motorbike Rental: Motorbike rentals can be found for $6-10/day. Prices here are very much up for negotiation.
Tipping: Tipping is not customary in Laos.
Huay Xai
1 Day
There is a lot of energy in this border-crossing town due to the high volume of people heading to Thailand or beginning their journey in Laos. Past a day, there is not much to do if you’re not here for the Gibbon Experience. Meuang Neu is a popular hangout for foreigners to go for food and drinks with its close location to the Gibbon Experience and cheap room rates.
The Gibbon Experience
2 Days
The Gibbon Experience, Huay Xai
Although the Gibbon Experience comes with a hefty price tag, it’s worth every penny. What better way to get your blood flowing and nip a fear of heights than zipping through beautiful stretches of jungle and sleeping in one of the world’s highest tree houses!
For the ‘Express Experience’ you’ll be shuttled off into the jungle for an eventful first day jam-packed with 9 zip lines. The first zip is a short line over a little creek but scary nonetheless for those who have a fear of heights or those who aren’t quite sure about the equipment yet. From there you’ll take a moderately strenuous 1-2 hour hike up to lunch. After lunch the excitement and comfort only grows from zip to zip as you fly over incredibly stunning stretches of jungle. The final zip is into an unbelievable 3-story treehouse. It is the perfect place to relax in nature and get clean in the wonderful outdoor shower with stunning views high above the trees. Wake up ready to fly on the second day with another 7 lines!
The Gibbon Experience Express Cost: $180 (varies from high to low season)
Kip per Zip: $11.25 - PLUS meals and one nights accommodation!
How to get to Luang Namtha from Huay Xai:
Mode of Transportation: Local Bus
Time: 5-6 hours
Cost: $7.50
Local buses run from Huay Xai to Luang Namtha and can be booked at the travel agency located across the street from the Gibbon Experience. If you return from the Gibbon Experience early enough you can take the 4:00pm bus to Luang Namtha. The travel agency will arrange for a songtow to pick you up at 3:30pm and take you to the bus station. The travel agency offers a later pick up time closer to 5:00pm if you return late from the Gibbon Experience. From the drop off point in Luang Namtha you can take a songtow into town (cost should be no more than $2 each).
Luang Namtha
1-2 Days
Novice Monk, Luang Namtha
The medium sized town of Luang Namtha is the gateway to the north. While trekking in Nam Ha National Park is the main attraction in town, there are plenty other ways to explore on your own if you don’t have funds to do a hike. Renting a motorbike or bicycle ($6) will give you the freedom to spend the day cruising around the local villages outside of town. The hills surrounding the dusty landscape remain healthy and green even during the peak of hot season. There is a local waterfall ($1.25 entry fee/ $0.25 motorbike parking fee/ $0.15 bicycle parking fee) just outside of town that can be hiked without guides. It’s important to note that the waterfall is non-existent during hot season.
If you’re seeking something a little more laid back, there are two stupas in town. The stupas themselves are not that impressive but they are located at slightly higher elevation offering a nice view of the landscape below. There is a $0.60 fee to enter the stupa. After a day of exploring the small night market located right across the street from Zuela’s Guesthouse is a nice place to unwind with delicious local food at a fair price.
It’s worth mentioning that some trekking companies in town will take you on a two-day trek for as cheap as $50, but more reputable trekking agencies cautioned against scams where these places do not actually take you into the National Park. Most two-day excursions are around $160 for 1 person and $90 for two people. The cost continues to drop with larger groups coming in at about $50 a person for a group of 8.
How to get to Muang Khua from Luang Namtha:
Mode of Transportation: Local Bus
Time: 6 hours
Cost: $14
Buses from Luang Namtha to Muang Khua can be booked at travel agencies in town. Zuela Guesthouse has a travel agency next to their restaurant that will arrange to have a songtow pick you up at the hotel as early as 7:30am for an 8:00am departure. The local bus is quite small. There isn’t a bus station in Muang Khua so expect to be dropped off in the middle of town.
Muang Khua
1 Day
Golden Hour, Muang Khua
Muang Khua is a small but busy town. Tourists mainly find themselves here because it is a jump off point to Muang Ngoi but this stop is also beginning to gain attention for trekking opportunities in the area. There are a couple guesthouses to choose from in town, however restaurants are tough to come by with only two main options. The scenic town offers nice views of the mountains and river, especially from the walking bridge at sunset. After a hot day of travel throw your swimming suit on and join the locals in the river.
How to get from Muang Khua to Muang Ngoi:
Mode of Transportation: Slow Boat
Time: 3.5 hours
Cost: $12.50
You cannot buy slow boat tickets in advance so you will need to go to the ticket hut near the boat dock at 9:00am the morning you would like to leave to purchase them. The price should be around $13 per person but if there are less than 8 foreign passengers the cost may go up. The price for the entire boat should be around $100-$125 and they leave between 9:30am-10:00am.
If you’re there during dry season, be prepared to hop out and walk around the rapids. Along the way the landscape changes from a fairly small mountainous terrain to one of huge karsts with colossal mountains as far as the eye can see in the midst of the hazy smoke of dry season. You will pass children playing in the water at just about every village. There are also water buffalo, local fisherman, and huge packs of yellow and white butterflies dancing along the riverbanks. The boats are long, narrow and usually a tight squeeze. After a mind and body-numbing ride, you’ll finally arrive to Muang Ngoi.
Muang Ngoi
2-3 Days
Lonely Beach, Muang Ngoi
The tranquil town of Muang Ngoi is situated right on the banks of the Nam Ou River below a cluster of towering limestone mountains. Riverfront bungalows are common and hammocking is a way of life around these parts. The town itself is only one dirt road that extends less than a mile long. The main street illuminates at night with funky lighting from friendly and inviting restaurants. The town is a nice mix of local life with all the basic traveler comforts.
If you head toward the temple you will be able to find a path leading down to a nice stretch of beach along the river. You will possibly have to share the beach with a water buffalo or two but the water is ice cold and the sunsets beautiful. In Muang Ngoi, whether you’re getting into a good book, laid up in a hammock, exploring the countryside, or working on your blog you’ll know you’ve stumbled upon something special. It is important to note that there are no ATMs here, just a money exchange so make sure you bring plenty of cash with you.
How to get to Nong Khiaw from Muang Ngoi:
Mode of Transportation: Slow Boat
Time: 1 hour
Cost: $3
Boat tickets to Nong Khiaw can be purchased at the ticket office near the dock. Two boats go to Nong Khiaw, one at 9:30am and the other at 11:30am. There is also a chance that you can hop on another boat passing through from Muang Khua a little later in the day for an extra charge. It is a quick hour trip down the river to Nong Khiaw.
Nong Khiaw
2 Days
Viewpoint, Nong Khiaw
Nong Khiaw extends in both directions across the Nam Ou River. On the riverbank opposite the boat landing there are several bungalows worth making the walk over the bridge for. The main attraction in Nong Khiaw is an excellent viewpoint ($2.50 entrance fee) that is a fairly strenuous 1-1.5 hour trek up. It is best to go first thing in the morning when it is a bit cooler and the clouds still hug the mountains below. If you rent a bicycle or motorbike ($7.50) for the day you can also head to the Pha Tok Caves ($1.25 entrance fee). Here the local government took shelter and conducted meetings during the Vietnam War.
How to get from Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang:
Mode of Transportation: Minivan
Time: 3-4 hours
Cost: $5-12
Minivans from Nong Khiaw to Luang Prabang leave every hour starting at 8:00am. Tickets are $5 if purchased at the bus station outside of town. Travel agencies in town near the boat dock offer $6 for the local minivans and agencies on the opposite side of the river will charge anywhere from $10-12. The trip takes a little over 3 hours. It is important to note that the 15 person minivans leave once they are full, even if this is well before their scheduled departure time. The minivan will stop at the bus station or in town. If you stop at the bus station a songtow to the center will cost $1.25 per person.
Luang Prabang
3-4 Days
Sunset on the Mekong River, Luang Prabang
Located in northern Laos at the confluence of the Mekong and Nam Khan River, the historic town of Luang Prabang has an undeniable charm with a blend of French colonial and traditional architecture. Given the large number of Wats and strong religious influence here, it’s common to see peaceful gatherings of Monks collecting alms in the mornings. One of the biggest natural attractions in the area is the Kuang Si Waterfall ($2.50 entrance fee) and it’s easy to see why - this mammoth waterfall stays lush even in the midst of dry season. Bring a pair of tennis shoes and your bathing suit so you can do the trek around the waterfall and hop in to cool off after. Kuang Si Waterfall is 45-minutes away from Luang Prabang town. The night market in Luang Prabang is one of the best in South East Asia. You’ll find tons of textiles, clothing, bags and souvenirs here. Even if you aren’t in the market for anything, it’s worthwhile to just walk through. Shakes, crepes, and Laos food can be found at each end of the market.
During the Laos New Year this sleepy town wakes up and transforms into the battleground for a rowdy water fight. Whole streets are lined with people throwing buckets of water on anything that moves and locals and tourists partying together. Everyone is invited and if you are outside you will get soaked so take care of all your electronics.
How to get from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng:
Mode of Transportation: Minivan
Time: 5 hours
Cost: $14
Minivans from Luang Prabang to Vang Vieng can be booked through guesthouses in the area. There are several departure times throughout the day and different options for minivans (VIP, express, etc.). Most of them leave as early as 8:00am and as late as 7:30pm. The van will likely drop you off in town within walking distance to local guesthouses.
Vang Vieng
2 Days
River Float, Vang Vieng
The beautiful town of Vang Vieng is not quite the party hub that it used to be. A government crackdown on the infamous tubing party scene in 2012 led to the closing of almost all of the bars along the river. Now you will only find a handful of bars still open, primarily at the beginning and end of the float. It is still an enjoyable way to kick back, relax and take in the scenery while keeping cool. Tube rentals cost $6 plus a $7.50 deposit and tuk tuks to the drop-off point cost between $0.60-2.50.
Tubing aside, there are several other ways to soak up all of the natural beauty of Vang Vieng. With countless caves to explore, a viewpoint ($1.25 entrance fee), kayaking, and a Blue Lagoon ($1.25 entrance fee; $0.60 to park), there’s a little something for everyone. Rent a motorbike ($9) and discover the beautiful landscape on your own.
How to get from Vang Vieng to Phonsavan:
Mode of Transportation: Van
Time: 6-7 hours
Cost: $14
Bus tickets from Vang Vieng to Phonsavan can be booked through several guesthouses in town. The minivan to Phonsavan leaves the bus station at 9:00am. The van will likely drop you off at the bus station in Phonsavan, which is conveniently located near several guesthouses.
Phonsavan
2-3 Days (one of which is travel)
Plain of Jars, Phonsavan
The quiet town of Phonsavan is often overlooked by tourist but is well worth the visit. The main tourist attraction here is The Plain of Jars ($2 entrance fee at site 1). These mysterious massive hallowed boulders are truly a spectacle, sprawling across open stretches of land. Local folklore suggests that these jars were the whiskey cups of ancient giants as where historians think they were used as part of an ancient burial process. Either way, they are impressive. In addition to all of the mystery around this historical site, it also wears the sobering scars of the Vietnam War with massive bomb craters and unexploded ordinances littered throughout the archeological site. You can rent a motorbike for $10 and visit these sites on your own.
Other tourist attractions in the area include a hot springs, waterfall and cave. Two noteworthy stops in Phonsavan are MAG (Mines Advisory Group) and QLA (Quality Life Assurance). A visit to these organizations will help you learn more about the dangers unexploded ordnances (UXOs) continue to pose to the people in Laos over 40 years after the Vietnam War in one of the areas that was most heavily bombed during this time.
How to get from Phonsavan to Vientiane:
Mode of Transportation: Sleeper Bus
Time: 9-11 hours
Cost: $18.50
Bus tickets from Phonsavan to Vientiane can be purchased through most guesthouses or directly at the bus station in town. Buses leave as early as 7:00am and as late as 8:00pm. The bus will likely drop you off at the bus station in Vientiane where you will need to take a taxi or tuk tuk to the center of town ($6).
Vientiane
2 Days
The Fabled Beerlao, Vientiane
Foreigners can feel right at home in this capital city with numerous cafés and western restaurants to choose from. Although Vientiane is the largest city in Laos, it has a laid back and comfortable feel making it a relaxing place to unwind at the end of a trip or for last minute planning if you are doing the reverse route of this itinerary. If you’re looking for adventure rent a motorbike ($10) and explore the number of temples and museums in the city or head less than two hours outside of town to Phou Khao Khouay National Park to discover waterfalls and jungle.
Headed to Vietnam Next? Here’s How to Get a Vietnam Visa in Vientiane:
It is easy for foreigners to obtain a visa at the Vietnam Embassy in Vientiane. The office is located a little over 5 minutes outside of the city center costing no more than $6.50 to get there and back. Upon arrival at the office you will need to fill out a short, one-sided visa application page. Glue your photo to this page and hand over your passport and $60 to the official. They accept Kip if you are unable to exchange money beforehand. If you arrive at the office early enough, your passport will be available for pick-up between 5:00-5:30pm the following day. The Vietnam visa itself is a sticker that covers a whole passport page.
Note: Acquiring a visa on arrival is also a simple process if you are unable to go to an Embassy however, it is important to note that this service is only available when you fly into the country through Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City. At this point you are not able to use the visa on arrival service at land borders. In addition, the Vietnam Embassy closes for long stretches of time for different holidays so if you plan on going to a consulate during your trip, make sure you check ahead to confirm they will be open when you plan on going.
What you need: You will need your passport, a passport-sized photo and $60. Make sure your passport is valid for at least 6 months and that you have a whole free page for the visa.
Hours: Monday - Friday 8:30am-5:30pm
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