Vietnam

Vietnam is a compelling blend of tradition and innovation. Walking a single block in Hanoi you can see Vietnamese businessmen in sleek custom suits alongside traditionally dressed women wearing bamboo hats selling fruit.  It is a socialist republic caught in the seduction of capitalism.  Traveling in Vietnam is hands down the best bang for your buck in Southeast Asia. No other country offers such a high quality of accommodation, food, and entertainment for such a small price.  Tourism is booming in Vietnam with new guesthouses, international restaurants, and travel agencies opening all over the country.  Take advantage of this and visit Vietnam before the prices catch up with the rest of Southeast Asia.

Along with the well-known tourist destinations of Vietnam, there is a healthy independent travel scene here. The backpacker districts of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City both have a bohemian vibe and act as the staging point for travelers who have decided to explore the country by motorbike. Crazy traffic and poor road conditions make touring Vietnam by motorbike extremely dangerous, but the feeling of freedom seeing this amazing country on your own set of wheels is surreal. 

Below is a 20-23 day itinerary to help you get from Hanoi to HCMC by motorbike.  Here is what you can expect:

• Visa Information
• When to Visit
• How to Budget
• A 20- 23 Day Guide to Motorbiking Vietnam

Visa

The process for obtaining a visa on arrival in Vietnam is fairly easy. There are a number of companies offering visa services like MyVietnamVisa.com.  They are helpful because they will arrange a visa approval letter for you before you arrive in Vietnam without having to visit a Vietnamese Consulate. Simply complete the online application for the appropriate visa for your trip.

The different options are: 1 month single entry ($20), 3 month single entry ($30), 1 month multiple entry ($23) or 3 month multiple entry ($45) visa. These cost do not include the stamping fee. The stamping fee is paid on arrival ($25 for single entry and $50 for multiple entry). It is important that you submit your visa request at least 5 days before your scheduled arrival in Vietnam. Processing can take 3-5 working days.

Once your request is complete you will receive an email with an approval letter. You will need to print this letter and bring it with you to immigration along with your passport (valid for at least another 6 months), 2 passport-sized photographs and your payment of $25 or $50 for the stamping fee. The visa itself is a sticker that will take up a full page in your passport and the arrival stamps will take up another half a page so make sure you have enough room.  

If you’re arriving without a photograph in Hanoi, they can take one for you for an additional $2. If you do not have USD you can pay with VND, however it might be a little more expensive. There is an ATM located at immigration. It is important to note that E-Visas are only accepted at the international airports in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.  If you plan to arrive by a land border you will need to have your visa taken care of the old fashioned way, in person at a Vietnamese Consulate beforehand.

What you need

• Your original passport, valid for at least another 6 months
• Visa on Arrival Approval Letter
• Two passport-sized photographs
• USD or VND for the stamping fee

When to visit

We arrived to Vietnam at the end of April and stayed through the end of May. Hot days and nights were typical of all areas during this time except in the mountains of Dalat, which were quite cool. The weather varies greatly throughout the country with monsoons effecting the far north and far south at different times of the year.  This makes it difficult to plan for ideal weather but generally the months of September to December as well as March and April are the best times for a trip.

budget

Currency: The currency in Vietnam is the Vietnamese Dong (VND).

Conversion Rate: $1 = 22,415 VND (November 2016)

Accommodation: We spent an average of $15 a night. A double room costs anywhere from $9-25. Dorm rooms can be found for around $5.

Food: Western meals cost around $3-5, however local eats can be found for $1-2.

Drink: Local beer generally goes for $1 at restaurants and $0.50 at the store.

Laundry: You can expect to pay $1/kilo. If you want the convenience of having your laundry done at your hotel you’ll be looking at $2/kilo.

Tipping: Tipping is not customary in Vietnam.

Motorbiking Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City in 20-23 Days

Itinerary Overview:

Day 1: Hanoi to Ninh Binh
Day 2: Ninh Binh
Day 3: Ninh Binh to Thanh Hoa
Day 4: Thanh Hoa to Thai Hoa
Day 5: Thai Hoa to Phong Nha
Day 6-7: Phong Nha
Day 8: Phong Nha to Hue
Day 9:  Hue to Hoi An
Day 10-11: Hoi An
Day 12: Hoi An to Kon Tum
Day 13: Dak Glei, Kon Tum to Kon Tum Town
Day 14: Kon Tum to Quy Nhon
Day 15: Quy Nhon to Tuy Hoa
Day 16: Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang
Day 17: Nha Trang to Dalat
Day 18: Dalat
Day 19: Dalat to Cam Ranh Beach
Day 20: Cam Ranh Beach to Ninh Chu Beach
Day 21: Ninh Chu Beach to Mui Ne Beach
Day 22: Mui Ne Beach to Ho Coc Beach
Day 23: Ho Coc Beach to Ho Chi Minh

Day 1: Hanoi to Ninh Binh

If you are new to riding a motorcycle get an early start out of Hanoi to avoid the traffic. It will take nearly an hour just to work your way out of the city. Once you clear the hectic streets of Hanoi, the landscape will be wide-open, full of rice paddies and limestone karsts. Today you will go from dodging taxis, motorbikes, trucks and buses to cruising alongside locals in traditional dress riding bicycles loaded with crops. The Vietnamese here are quick to show big smiles to the new foreigners making their way through their small towns. Avoid Route 1 by taking CT08 out of Hanoi and then QL21 south. While it will tack on a significant chunk of time to your journey the views and lack of traffic make it well worth the extra time. A general rule for road tripping in Vietnam is to always stay as far away from Route 1 as possible.

Getting from Hanoi to Ninh Binh:

Kilometers: 153 km
Time: 7 hours
Note - Google quotes 3 hours but in order to avoid Route 1 you’ll be looking at closer to 7 hours.

Day 2: Ninh Binh

Ninh Binh is full of natural beauty and is a wonderful breath of fresh air after coming from chaotic Hanoi. Head west out of town toward The Long Hotel to make the most of your time here. It's a quiet area surrounded by limestone mountains and rice fields.  If you are a beginner on a bike, this is the perfect place to get familiar with the clutch and feel of a manual bike. The karst formations alongside bright green rice paddies are extremely photogenic. If you're interested in something more social, see some of the sights with the popular boat tours.

Day 3: Ninh Binh to Thanh Hoa

A stop at the Ho Citadel in Vinh Loc just 3 hours outside of Ninh Binh is worth a visit on the way to Thanh Hoa. The citadel is a local tourist attraction and it’s a natural break after the first 3-hour leg of the trip. In addition, the town has several very local restaurants to pick from for lunch. From here drive another 2 and a half hours along QL45 to the city of Thanh Hoa. This leg of the drive is far less impressive than the one from Hanoi to Ninh Binh.

Thanh Hoa is a large town with soviet style architecture and an extremely local feel. Tourism is non-existent here so don’t expect much English to be spoken during your visit. While Thanh Hoa does not have the same tourism infrastructure that some of the other stops do, this is a nice place to get a glimpse into local city life.

Getting from Ninh Binh to Thanh Hoa:

Kilometers: 105 km
Time: 6 hours

Day 4: Thanh Hoa to Thai Hoa

The trip from Thanh Hoa to Thai Hoa is best done along the Ho Chi Minh Highway. While Route 1 might save you a little time, the highway is a mess compared to the scenic stretch on the Ho Chi Minh Highway. This journey will loop around Ben En National Park. It takes approximately 3 hours to get from Thanh Hoa to the National Park and then another 3 hours to the smaller town of Thai Hoa. Ben En National Park is a popular Vietnamese tourist attraction. Little English is spoken here so it is not really worth the stop unless you hire a tour guide or have a passion for wildlife conservation.

Thai Hoa is a smaller town with a friendly feel. Toan Thu Hotel is a nice place to stay, right in the middle of town. There are several restaurants serving local cuisine as well as bakeries located along the main stretch in town.

Getting from Thanh Hoa to Thai Hoa:

Kilometers: 111 km
Time: 6 hours (with a stop at Ben En National Park)

Day 5: Thai Hoa to Phong Nha

It is a long trip from Thai Hoa to Phong Nha but the views along the Ho Chi Minh Highway make the butt-numbing ride well worth it. The road snakes through a mountain range about two and a half hours outside of Phong Nha making for magnificent scenery as each turn unveils views superior to the last. This is easily one of the most beautiful days on the HCMH.

You’ll know when you hit Phong Nha by the Hollywood style labeling on the mountains outside of town. This tiny valley town is a backpacker haven, packed full of choice accommodation, incredible eats and loads of nature ready for exploring.

Getting from Thai Hoa to Phong Nha:

Kilometers: 309 km
Time: 9 hours

Day 6-7: Phong Nha

If you aren’t pressed for time, Phong Nha is the perfect place to stick around for a few days exploring the numerous caves in the area. Paradise Cave, Phong Nha Cave and Dark Cave are among the top draws. Paradise Cave, located just outside of town, is the longest dry cave in all of Asia. Tourists are free to roam 1 km into this 31 km cave for $11 per person. If you’re interested in wandering further into the darkness or staying for a night of cave camping, you can find several tour offerings in town. Phong Nha Cave is another spot you won’t want to miss. It can only be accessed by water so you’ll need to take a 30-minute boat ride there. It’s a beautiful ride and it only gets better as you row back into the cave. The boat will dock inside allowing you to hop out and explore the sandy areas within the cave. The boat cost $16 and can carry 14 passengers so try to get a group together at one of the hotels in town. Tickets to enter the actual cave cost an additional $7. Dark Cave is a popular option among adventure seekers with zip lines, mud baths, kayaks and a suspended obstacle course. The full tour will run you $20 but if you don’t want the package deal you can pay for different activities separately.

Wander On: If you need a place to cool down after a day of caving, head over to Easy Tiger where you can get unlimited access to their pool for $3 even if you’re not a guest.

Day 8: Phong Nha to Hue

Take Route 16 out of Phong Nha. This will turn into the Ho Chi Minh Highway (QL15). You will need to cut over to Route 1 briefly before arriving at QL49B. This route will take you along local coastal roads and across rice fields nearly the entire way. You’ll see farmers picking crops and guiding their cattle through lush rice fields. As you approach Hue you will ride past hundreds of elaborate graves. The plots include huge tombs with ornate Chinese architecture. Hue is a busy city, especially after passing through the quiet countryside so you’ll want to have your hotel loaded on Google Maps and head straight there. If you don’t have accommodation, head over to the backpacker district around 66 Le Loi Street and Nguyen Cong Tru Street for some western eats and good accommodation.

Getting from Phong Nga to Hue:

Kilometers: 231 km
Time: 6 hours

Day 9:  Hue to Hoi An

If you’re a sightseer, get an early start on the day to check out the Citadel, the Thien Mu Pagoda, and the Japanese Bridge, Thanh Toan. The drive out of Hue isn’t as scenic as the drive in, but the road is covered with hundreds more graves. Expect a bit of a rough ride out of town, as the road is littered with potholes and sandy patches. The scenery changes as you approach Route 1. There is a bridge that offers a glimpse of the ocean and views of a large mountain range as you drive along the inner waterway. QL1 will break off into AH1 but make sure you stay on QL1 toward the Hai Van Pass for one of the most scenic portions of the trip. The road to the pass will zigzag back and forth through a dense green forest with views of the coastline and endless bright blue water . A huge bend over the pass will sling you to the other side of the mountains where Da Nang is visible in the distance past beautiful stretches of coastline. There are several places to stop for pictures including a large rock overlooking Da Nang. The route then takes you through the glitzy town of Da Nang where you’ll drive along a coast lined with palm trees heading toward Hoi An.

Getting from Hue to Hoi An:

Kilometers: 164 km
Time: 5.5 hours

Day 10-11: Hoi An

It’s no wonder the charming little town of Hoi An is a UNESCO World Heritage site. With beautiful lanterns strewn throughout the streets and a blend of foreign and native influences, there is a unique feel that’s hard not to love. Kick back and enjoy what this charming ancient seaport has to offer. To soak in some of the sights, rent a bicycle and cruise through town. If you’re in need of a little relaxation, head over to An Bang Beach where you can rent a beach chair and have lunch and drinks delivered to you. In the evening hours be sure to make your way over to the Night Market where you’ll be captivated by the bright, colorful glow of the silk lanterns. If you can afford to squeeze a few extra items into your bag, you’ll definitely want to make time for some shopping here. Hoi An is renowned for having excellent and affordable tailors. Sewing machines can be heard humming all around town forming custom made suits, dresses, shoes, etc. Aside from shopping and relaxing, be sure to try the local cuisine while you’re in Hoi An. Cao Lau is Hoi An’s signature dish. This delicious pork and noodle specialty is unique to Hoi An and it will keep you coming back for more. If you’ve developed a passion for Vietnamese food at this point in your travels, Hoi An is known to have excellent cooking classes.

Day 12: Hoi An to Kon Tum

The trip from Hoi An to Kon Tum is a long one. It takes nearly 7 hours to get to the province of Kon Tum and an additional two and half hours to get to the city. Luckily, this portion of the trip is truly beautiful as you continue along the Ho Chi Minh Highway through huge mountains full of thick foliage and tropical jungle. If you get a late start and can’t quite make it to Kon Tum Town, there are guesthouses in Dak Glei about 2.5 hours away from the city. The town of Dak Glei is small so it will not be uncommon for you to be the only foreigner around but the locals are welcoming.

Getting from Hoi An to Dak Glei, Kon Tum:

Kilometers: 185 km
Time: 7 hours

Day 13: Dak Glei, Kon Tum to Kon Tum Town

The trip into Kon Tum Town is short in comparison to the ride from Hoi An to Dak Glei. You’ll want to grab a bite to eat in town, as you won’t find much on the food front until arriving into Kon Tum Town. This section of the Ho Chi Minh Highway will take you through bright green banana trees amidst dusty red and brown landscape. The countryside consists of rolling hills and small mountains in the distance as you ride past farmers hard at work in the fields and children biking to school, handing out smiles and waves to the new foreigner. Kon Tum is comprised of several minority villages, each of which has a ‘Rong House.’ These communal houses are uniquely shaped, with two very long sides extending into a sharply pointed roof held above stilts. While Kon Tum doesn’t see a great deal of tourism, a visit to the ethnic minority groups is one of the main attractions in the area. The laidback and peaceful air in town makes it hard to believe that it was home to some of the most violent battles during the Vietnam American War.

Getting from Dak Glei, Kon Tum to Kon Tum Town:

Kilometers: 113 km
Time: 2.5 hours

Day 14: Kon Tum to Quy Nhon

The road is rough and patchy heading out of Kon Tum and passes through several rural minority villages. The route then cuts through the countryside with a mix of large and small towns tucked away in the hills. On this stretch the terrain turns a reddish dusty brown with charred vegetation. Gas stations and food stops are plentiful. A particularly nice portion of today's ride is down a windy hill that offers nice views of the rolling mountains below. After soaking in the views and dodging the trucks that will accompany you on this portion of the trip, the road will flatten out through a few more towns with mountains off in the distance. After passing the towns the scenery turns to farmland. You can expect more traffic and hectic road conditions as you take Route 1 into Quy Nhon.

The large seaside town of Quy Nhon is situated on a beautiful stretch of beach. The town is not visited by many western tourists, but is popular among the Vietnamese.  While you likely will not catch many people enjoying the beach by day, right after sunset herds of locals rush the beach to enjoy golden hour in the surf.

Wander On: Head over to Big Tree Backerpackers for an incredible nights accommodation. This little gem is tucked away on a stunning stretch of beach with great eats. Consider booking in advance to reserve your spot. It’s a backpacker oasis!

Getting from Kon Tum Town to Quy Nhon:

Kilometers: 189 km
Time: 5 hours

Day 15: Quy Nhon to Tuy Hoa

Two hours outside of Quy Nhon on the way to Tuy Hoa you’ll find Ganh Da Dia ($0.50 entrance fee). This impressive site is essentially the Vietnamese version of the Giant’s Causeway in Ireland. The way in which the basalt rocks have gathered together to form interesting geometric shapes that shoot out of the ocean is truly a spectacle and well worth the visit. These strange stones are believed to have been formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago. The road from Quy Nhon will take you along a beautiful coastal stretch that eventually connects back to Route 1.

From Ganh Da Dia it’s another hour to Tuy Hoa. This beachside town does not cater to western tourists.  There is a bit of a strange vibe here, but it is a natural resting point after a day of rock explorations before heading to the far more developed tourist metropolis of Nha Trang.

Getting from Quy Nhon to Tuy Hoa:

Kilometers: 115 km
Time: 3 hours

Day 16: Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang

Avoid Route 1 by taking the incredible stretch of costal road along QL29 down to Mui Dien. Here you can pull off to relax on a beautiful beach and stretch your legs by walking up to an impressive lighthouse ($0.50 entrance fee) positioned high above the rocks and sea below.

 Continue along the striking coastline toward the well-developed tourist hub of Nha Trang. Packed full of all sorts of western amenities, the vibe in Nha Trang is much different than any other destination on the trip. At times you may not even feel like you are in Vietnam except for the occasional bamboo hat and local food stand. The beach is beautiful but you can expect a crowd. If you’re looking for a different beach experience head over to Doc Let Beach and join the Vietnamese beach party.

Getting from Tuy Hoa to Nha Trang:

Kilometers: 139 km
Time: 3.5 hours

Day 17: Nha Trang to Dalat

The drive from Nha Trang to Dalat offers a total change in scenery as you move away from the scorching coast and into crisp mountains. The drop in temperature is particularly refreshing if you are traveling during hot season. It is another beautiful day on the road as you hug the mountains zigzagging your way up above the rolling land below with little waterfalls bursting through cracks in the mountain walls. As you approach Dalat the fertile landscape is full of strawberry and flower fields.

Getting from Nha Trang to Dalat:

Kilometers: 135 km
Time: 3.5 hours

Day 18: Dalat

Located in the central highlands of Vietnam, Dalat is a unique pocket of Vietnam unlike much of the rest of the country. The cool climate paired with the European influence in Dalat leaves you wondering if you are still in Vietnam. If you can afford to spend a few days relaxing and exploring the area, do it! Dalat is home to the “Crazy House” and “Duong Len Trang,” both of which are funky architectural masterpieces. Spend the day wandering about the unconventional “Crazy House” where nature is brought to life in the walls, ceilings, floors and staircases through plastered vines, wood stumps, sea creatures, spider webs, and animals. It has an Alice and Wonderland feel to it. The tourist attraction doubles as a hotel with 10 uniquely themed bedrooms. In the evening hours head over to “Duong Len Trang or 100 Roof Bar” where you can catch a buzz and get lost exploring the maze that exists inside as you climb, crawl, and settle into private nooks and crannies within this grownup playground.

Architecture aside there are plenty of other ways to soak up the natural beauty found in Dalat. If you can muster up the strength to hop back on the hog on your rest day, head out to the waterfalls (Elephant and Datanla), pagodas or just cruise around immersing yourself in the lush pine forests, beautiful hills, picturesque lakes and fresh air. At the end of the day head over to the night market for a bite to eat, beers, some people watching, and a little shopping. With daily exploration, fun nighttime activities, and incredible food, the comfortable town of Dalat has everything it needs to charm its visitors!

Day 19: Dalat to Cam Ranh Beach

Hop on the road out of Dalat at a reasonable hour to make the 4-hour trip to Cam Ranh Beach for your first night of beach camping. The road out of Dalat was under construction in May 2016 making for slow travel conditions. Cutbacks down the mountain will offer nice views of valley below before arriving on the flat, traffic free road through the valley. The valley is searing and arid but somehow green banana trees still manage to sprout through the malnourished soil.

The lowlands open up to the coast and a narrow road will send you to Ngoc Suong Resort on Cam Ranh Beach. The resort is situated on a jaw dropping stretch of beach with an entire area dedicated to campers (although you’ll likely be the only camper or resort guest for that matter). The site offers fire pits, bathrooms, a restaurant and the flexibility to pop your tent up wherever you please. The sandy bamboo hut lined beach is met by crystal clear water with strange massive boulders extending through the surf.  The boulders seem to glow at sunset.  With the manicured beaches, great campsites and resort restaurant, Ngoc Suong is the ultimate “glamping” setup.  A room here will cost you $90 but camping is only $9.

Getting from Dalat to Cam Ranh Beach:

Kilometers: 140 km
Time: 4 hours

Day 20: Cam Ranh Beach to Ninh Chu Beach

Spend the day enjoying Ngoc Suong Resort before hitting the road for another night of camping at Ninh Chu Beach. It is a relatively short one and a half hour ride along the coastal road TL702 on the outskirts of Nui Chua National Park but it is absolutely stunning so make sure you budget enough time to pull off a couple times to take in the hues of blue calling from the water and island views in the distance. Be prepared to have your mind blown with another top-notch night of camping/glamping at Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club where Mexican food, burgers, and ice-cold beer buckets can all be found on the menu. The beach is beautiful and it will likely be totally abandoned for a solo camping experience under the stars. Ninh Chu Bay Beach Club gives their campers everything they need including tents, pads, blankets, towels, access to the outdoor showers and toilets, and a security guard. If you’re traveling with your own tent then you’ll just need to purchase a $9 food and drink voucher (per person). Pricing for tent rentals can be found here. A pool table, paddleboards, and kiteboards are available for rent if you’re looking to get active.

Getting from Cam Ranh Beach to Ninh Chu Beach:

Kilometers: 56.4 km
Time: 1.5 hour 

Day 21: Ninh Chu Beach to Mui Ne Beach

Continue on to Mui Ne Beach for a third night of camping at LongSon Campground. A three-hour drive along a nice stretch of coastal road will eventually turn to giant sand dunes. LongSon Campground is a backpacker hub complete with western food, the ultimate lounge area with gigantic beanbags, pillows and couches, and nightly activities include pool nights, poker nights, movie nights, trivia nights, sandcastle competitions, pub-crawls, and bonfires. They have tons of tents already set-up to choose from or you can pop up your own tent wherever you’d like for only $2 per person. If you’re over camping at this point you can also opt for a dorm here. You will have access to lockers, showers, and bathrooms onsite. Tonight won’t be the same secluded camping conditions as the previous two nights of camping but there probably won’t be many others on this stretch of beach aside from the likeminded travelers at LongSon given its remote location.

Getting from Ninh Chu Beach to Mui Ne Beach:

Kilometers: 144 km
Time: 3 hours

Day 22: Mui Ne Beach to Ho Coc Beach

Wake up to the peaceful sounds of the ocean before starting your second to last day of travel.  A beautiful road right along the beach will start your trip south. The route will take you by the Red Sand Dunes and on to a paved road with a flower filled median, offering a nice view of the water in the distance.  You will drive through the heart of Mui Ne, a developed tourist hub full of resorts and western luxuries on your way out of town. It is easy to see why people flock to this destination as you pass gorgeous palm tree lined roads right beside bright blue waters. To avoid Route 1 you will want to take TL712, a tropical road along the coast. About an hour and a half outside of Mui Ne you will find Ke Ga Lighthouse, which can be seen from the road. If you need to stretch your legs pull over and walk on the oversized rocks to get a better view of the lighthouse situated slightly off the coast on an itty-bitty island. Continue on to Huong Phong Resort on Ho Coc Beach or Coco Beachcamp on Lagi Beach for a final night of camping. In comparison to the previous nights of camping Huong Phong Resort might be a bit of a let down. The beach has a very "resorty” feel to it. It does however have a lovely beach and it is likely you will have it all to yourself after the sun sets. If you are looking for something a little more lively try Coco Beachcamp. This backpacker hotspot is located just 40km before Huong Phong Resort. You can pitch your own tent for $3 per person at Huong Phong Resort and $4 at Coco Beachcamp. Rentals are available at both locations at a higher cost.

Getting from Mui Ne Beach to Ho Coc Beach:

Kilometers: 140 km
Time: 3.5 - 4 hours

Day 23: Ho Coc Beach to Ho Chi Minh

Brace yourself for a wild ride as you round out the trip into Ho Chi Minh City. Unfortunately the final stretch of the trip is the least scenic as you make your way from the coast into the chaotic roads of HCMC. You will find that motorbikes are not allowed on CT01 so you will need to take QL51 to QL52, making for a slightly longer trip into the city. Make sure you have your hotel plugged in to your phone or a good understanding of where you’re going as you make your way into the frantic city. If you plan on selling your bike in Ho Chi Minh City head to one of the several hostels in town. You will likely be able to find someone interested in doing the reverse route.

Getting from Ho Coc Beach to Ho Chi Minh:

Kilometers: 130 km
Time: 5 hours

Still need help? Questions or comment?  Drop us a line and we will get back to you as soon as we can.