The Northern Loop of Vietnam
If you are traveling through Vietnam and want a motorbike experience but don’t have a month’s time to dedicate to a trip from Hanoi to Saigon (or vice versa), the Northern Loop is an excellent alternative. In just four days you can cruise through the drastic mountains that encompass Northern Vietnam where each day seems better than the last.
The flavor is totally different in the far north when compared to other areas of Vietnam. Unlike the dreaded Route 1 that cuts down the coast of Vietnam, the roads up North are free of traffic – only shared with locals and water buffalo. Ethnic minority women can be found dressed in traditional headpieces and wearing colorful skirts overtop their pants. This region is the real-frontier land of Vietnam, too rugged for much development and home to the Kinh, Hmong, Tay, Dao, Nung, and Lo Lo ethnic groups. At some of the most remote spots along the roads in the mountains you might find a local with a makeshift stand under an umbrella selling produce. In rural areas, kids can be found herding (or riding) water buffalo or doubled up on bicycles.
The area is mostly made up of farming communities. It is difficult not to appreciate the hard work that the locals are putting into their farms from a very young age all the way to some of the eldest members in the community. Large woven baskets are carried along the backs of the young and old to transport their harvest up and down the steep terrain.
The captivating scenery is the most impressive in all of Vietnam. Lush, green, limestone, mountains burst up as far as the eye can see around picture perfect valleys. The landscape is truly remarkable and enough to leave you in absolute awe. Powering up these giant mountains and discovering the small hidden valley towns will make you feel like you are one of the first to uncover this amazing region.
Below is a 4-day itinerary to help you loop from Ha Giang to Yen Minh to Dong Van to Meo Vac and back to Ha Giang by motorbike. Here is what you can expect:
Visa
The process for obtaining a visa on arrival in Vietnam is fairly easy. There are a number of companies offering visa services like MyVietnamVisa.com. They are helpful because they will arrange a visa approval letter for you before you arrive in Vietnam without having to visit a Vietnamese Consulate. Simply complete the online application for the appropriate visa for your trip.
The different options are: 1 month single entry ($20), 3 month single entry ($30), 1 month multiple entry ($23) or 3 month multiple entry ($45) visa. These cost do not include the stamping fee. The stamping fee is paid on arrival ($25 for single entry and $50 for multiple entry). It is important that you submit your visa request at least 5 days before your scheduled arrival in Vietnam. Processing can take 3-5 working days.
Once your request is complete you will receive an email with an approval letter. You will need to print this letter and bring it with you to immigration along with your passport (valid for at least another 6 months), 2 passport-sized photographs and your payment of $25 or $50 for the stamping fee. The visa itself is a sticker that will take up a full page in your passport and the arrival stamps will take up another half a page so make sure you have enough room.
If you’re arriving without a photograph in Hanoi, they can take one for you for an additional $2. If you do not have USD you can pay with VND, however it might be a little more expensive. There is an ATM located at immigration. It is important to note that E-Visas are only accepted at the international airports in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. If you plan to arrive by a land border you will need to have your visa taken care of the old fashioned way, in person at a Vietnamese Consulate beforehand.
What you need
- Your original passport, valid for at least another 6 months
- Visa on Arrival Approval Letter
- Two passport-sized photographs
- USD or VND for the stamping fee
When to visit
We started our trip through the North on August 10th. We experienced patches of intense rain during this time, slowing travel on some days. The months of October to April are the best times to visit the North as it receives less rain during this time. You can expect rainy weather from May to September. With the incredibly mountainous terrain you will be covering, it is best to avoid traveling in rainy season as it can make for treacherous conditions on the road.
getting in and out
To get to Ha Giang from Hanoi, go to the My Dinh Bus Station located west of town. Buses leave throughout the day and evening with sleeper buses leaving as early as 6:00PM. The trip is about seven and a half hours and tickets should be priced around $8-9 when purchased at the bus station. If you drive yourself to the bus station you can leave your motorbike parked there for about $1/day. If you are staying at a hotel in Hanoi, tour operators in town can arrange tickets for you as well as a hotel pick-up service at an additional cost.
To get from Ha Giang to Hanoi, go to the bus station. Buses depart hourly from 5:00AM to noon and sleeper buses leave as early as 6:30PM. Expect another seven and a half hour journey to get back to Hanoi.
There are several spots in town to rent motorbikes for the trip. A 175cc motorbike should rent for about $13-14/day. Make sure you get a bike with a little extra power to scale these mountains. The roads themselves are in decent condition.
budget
Currency: The currency in Vietnam is the Vietnamese Dong (VND).
Conversion Rate: $1 = 22,700 VND (June 2017)
Accommodation: We spent an average of $15 a night. A double room costs anywhere from $9-25.
Food: Local eats can be found for $1-2.
Drink: Local beer generally goes for $1 at restaurants and $0.50 at the store.
Laundry: You can expect to pay $1/kilo. If you want the convenience of having your laundry done at your hotel you’ll be looking at $2/kilo.
Tipping: Tipping is not customary in Vietnam.
Motorbiking the Northern Loop in 4 Days
Day 1: Ha Giang to yen minh
Viewpoint located just before Heaven's Gate
Your journey out of Ha Giang will start along QL4C, next to the Lo River. You won’t need to go far before the landscape transforms into an impressive mountain range coming to multiple sharp peaks, covered in thick green forest. Small homes are scattered throughout the foothills, surrounded by their crops. The ride gets more impressive as you gain elevation up the mountain offering picturesque views of the valley below. Once you make your way up the first steep incline, you’ll find pull-offs where you can hop off your bike and look down on the windy roads you’ve just crossed, wrapped in layers of rice fields. Another viewpoint that is not to be missed today is a pull-off located almost 3kms before Heaven’s Gate Pass. This stunning outlook offers views of layers upon layers of mountains in all shades of green with a winding road etched into the landscape below. Continue along QL4C and you will come to Heaven’s Gate Pass located at an information center with an attached coffee shop. Take the stairs behind the cafe to the gazebo and take in the wonderful views of Tam Son. From here it will be about another 2 hours along QL4C to Yen Minh. The road hugs the river as you go through a valley, surrounded by mountainous karsts. You will make your way back to higher grounds with exceptional views of the Dong Van Plateau. The small town of Yen Minh has several guesthouses and restaurants to choose from.
Getting from Ha Giang to yen minh:
Kilometers: 100 km
Time: 4 hours
Day 2: Yen minh to dong van
The North Pole of Vietnam
If you leave Yen Minh around 10AM you’ll drive by packs of students making their commute to school. They walk in small groups up the mountain outside of town under umbrellas to protect themselves from the sun. As you make your way up the first incline, take a look behind you to get an overhead view of Yen Minh. The drive unveils remarkable views as you cut through karst mountains and traverse switchback after switchback to scale the highlands to a point where you will be positioned above the patchwork crops along the hillside.
If you enjoy a nice viewpoint, a trip to the Lung Cu Flag Tower or the “North Pole of Vietnam” is well worth the extra 45 minutes. To get there you will take D CC OG Rd off of QL 4C. The road is in rough condition so be cautious. It costs $1/per person to visit this attraction. A short climb up the stairs of the tower will lead you to the base of one of the largest flags you’ll have ever seen. The tower offers 360 views of the furthest Northern point in Vietnam and the mountains that border China. If you want to stick around a little while to soak it all in, you can find a coffee outpost located at the base of the stairs in this rural village.
It is about another hour to the much more lively hub of Dong Van. If you stay on one of the top floors in a larger hotel in town you can enjoy the beautiful scenery on the outskirts of town from your room. Head over to the market for a little evening shopping and budget a little extra time to check out the morning market the next day.
Getting from yen minh to dong van:
Kilometers: 85 km
Time: 3.5 hours
Day 3: dong van to meo vac
The road from Mã Pí Lèng Pass
You don’t have to drive far from Dong Van to find yourself in landscapes so stunning it will be hard to keep your eyes on the road. The stretch of road that you will travel along today is carved into the side of the mountain above a valley full of forested and drastic karsts. Parts of the road drop directly off into the valley so you’ll find cement blocks painted in white and yellow to prevent accidents around these windy roads. It wouldn’t be uncommon to find yourself cruising in the clouds as they make their way through the valley. The road is shared with locals, hard at work climbing the steep inclines with their daily harvests. About 30 minutes outside of Dong Van you’ll land on the impressive Ma Pi Leng Pass where the forested mountains break way to a river that cuts straight through them. Small waterfalls and villages can be seen in the distance. The road onward is equally a stunning as you’ll now be able to see the bending stretch of road that you will be taking carved into the mountains ahead. While the trip will only take you a little over an hour today, you will want to allow lots of extra time to pull off and enjoy this unbelievable stretch.
The small town of Meo Vac has a Soviet era feel to it. Nice accommodation can be found in town. A night market is held in a large open-air covered building. You’re not missing out on much if you don’t have time to make it here during your visit.
Getting from dong van to meo vac:
Kilometers: 22 km
Time: 1 hour and 15 minutes
Day 4: Meo Vac to ha giang
Local at work on the outskirts of Meo Vac
You won’t be disappointed with the views you’ll have on your way back to Ha Giang. Starting on TL182 west you’ll drive through rocky karst mountains, much different from the forested coverage that has been seen in days prior but still impressive in size. About 20kms outside of Meo Vac you will arrive at a wonderful view of the mountains, valley, and road below. There isn’t a pull off per say but there is plenty of room to pull your bike off to the side and enjoy the scenery. This direct route will take you back to Yen Minh where you’ll cover the same stretches of road you crossed the first day on your way back to Ha Giang along QL4C. After completing the journey back to Ha Giang, a stop at AK Café 26 it is well worth your time to see the large collection of remnants and army themed décor from the US-Vietnam War.
Getting from meo vac to ha giang:
Kilometers: 150 km
Time: 4.5 hours
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